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“What does success mean if you don’t have the time to enjoy it? If you work 100 hours in six days? If you’re too tired to take advantage of your one day off a week?” These are some of the questions that Chef Missy Robbins found herself asking, when, after 22 years of working at some of the country’s most prestigious restaurants and earning countless accolades (including two Michelin Stars, three Rising Star Awards, and the admiration of the Obamas), she realized she needed to make a change. “I had been lucky enough to receive some critical acclaim and the recognition from my chef peers, and it all seemed to be happening just as I had dreamed,” explains the chef, who helmed Chicago’s Spiaggia before becoming executive chef at New York’s famed A Voce restaurants. “But my hours had increased, my responsibility had increased, and the 12- to 14-hour workdays had taken a toll emotionally and physically. I was often absent at family occasions . . . it was difficult to keep up with friends . . . and I realized that I almost always felt torn. I’d developed joint problems, shoulder issues, back issues, and suffered from a general lack of taking care of myself.” So, at age 42, Robbins did something no one expected: She quit A Voce to take some much-needed time off.
This self-imposed hiatus—and the process of rediscovering herself, regaining her health, and finally building a balanced life—forms the basis for Robbins’s new book, Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner . . . Life! Recipes and Adventures from My Home Kitchen, out today from Rizzoli. One-part cookbook and one-part memoir, the 220-page hardcover chronicles everything from Robbins’s childhood in Connecticut to her 50-pound weight gain to the eventual light at the end of the tunnel: the opening of her very own restaurant, the acclaimed Lilia in Brooklyn’s Williamsburg. Told with honesty, humor, and humility, Robbins’s accounts are as fascinating and inspiring to read as her recipes (which include many Lilia signatures, including plenty of pasta and that ridiculously delicious olive oil cake) are tempting.
Below, the celebrated chef shares exclusively with Vogue an excerpt from Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner . . . Life! Recipes and Adventures from My Home Kitchen.
When I was a kid I loved going to the grocery store with my mom. It brought me great joy to roam through each aisle as we searched for our old standbys for the pantry: the perfect potato chip, Temp Tee whipped cream cheese, Doritos, salsa, Cracker Barrel cheddar cheese, French dressing. My palate was not as sophisticated as it is now, but I think what excited me was the sheer variety. Instead of a kid in a candy store, I was a kid in a grocery store. But for the suburbs, my family had a unique approach to shopping because it wasn’t just one-stop shopping at the grocery store. My mother rounded out our “regular” grocery store haul with meat from the kosher butcher, fish from the fish market, a stop at the Italian market for oils, cheeses, and olives, the cheese shop for fancy cheeses, the farm stand and orchard for apples, and so on. As I got older, I found it to be a pain in the ass that we spent so much time in the car running from place to place. In and out of the car. In and out of the car. But, like any great chef that values the quality of ingredients, my mom knew where the best was and she wouldn’t settle for less. The multiple stops for hours on end drove me insane, but once in the stores my eyes were always wide open and I loved assessing the “product.” It was so important—the right piece of salmon, the right piece of Brie (there was a lot of Boursin purchased as well), the right cut of brisket, the right kosher hot dog . . . This type of shopping and scrutiny was ingrained in me at an early age, and being so attracted to the process paved the way for me to become a chef.
When I actually started cooking professionally, I never ate at home. I never kept food in the house, except for maybe a few staples like olive oil and pasta. I didn’t need to. For one, I had terrible eating habits and never ate until I got to work. And two, I always worked and didn’t have time to eat at home. On my days off the last thing I wanted to do was cook. I wanted to try other restaurants and absorb what was happening in whatever city I called home. The meandering grocery shopping I once loved became a foreign concept. I got what I needed in quick spurts on demand, usually at a bodega or corner store or whatever spot was easiest. For twenty years, every time I had the occasion to cook at home, I had to start from scratch and get everything I needed, from eggs to olive oil (which had usually gone rancid sitting on the shelf, unused in the months since I last cooked).
When I left my job and tried to live like a somewhat normal civilian, I quickly discovered that I had strange food shopping habits. I would crave yogurt for breakfast, so I would go out and buy one yogurt. Later on, I’d get hungry for lunch and go out again to grab romaine to make a salad. Dinner would roll around and I’d want pasta, so out I went again. As a chef in a restaurant, we are used to having everything at our fingertips. You don’t think about needing anything because you have a very deep, constantly restocked pantry, full of every spice, condiment, oil, cheese, nut, flour, and any other dry good you can imagine. When hunger strikes at work, you do a tour of the walk-in fridge for inspiration and make something on a whim. It’s second nature. We don’t have to think. We just cook. And during my time off, it struck me that that’s what you should be able to do at home, too. And that most people, other than crazy chefs like me, probably do.
Fixing my pantry wasn’t that big of a hurdle, once I decided to stock it. The larger problem is that I never know what I want to eat in a given moment. I’m driven by cravings and ingredient inspiration—I’m just not a meal planner. But, having the basics around—spices, oils, salt, vinegars, dried pastas, all the stuff that won’t go bad—makes life easier. Now that I’ve rediscovered my love for grocery shopping, I find I have returned to the habits instilled by my mom. I rarely go to a big grocery store. I still like to go to the Italian market, the cheese shop, the fish market, the butcher (though definitely not the kosher one), and most importantly, the farmers market. Now that I’m a New Yorker who walks everywhere and not a teenage kid being dragged around in the suburbs, I do have much more appreciation for the car because the alternative—schlepping tons of heavy bags around for blocks—gets pretty old.
I’ve put together a guide to all the ingredients I now make sure to always have in my home pantry and fridge. Knowing these ingredients are on hand doesn’t curtail my creativity; instead, it allows me to make the spontaneous choices that I think are the most fun part of cooking. They are in no particular preferential order, but you won’t have to get far into this book to learn what my most essential ingredients are (garlic, olive oil, lemons, chili flakes). I have only included the items that are on heavy rotation in my home kitchen and that I would feel lost without.
AnchoviesMany people tell me that they are scared of anchovies, but used properly and sparingly, they can add just the right amount of umami to a dish. And as you’ll see in this book, I also enjoy them as the star of the show. Italian or Spanish varieties found in specialty markets are a step beyond, but the most common brand, Roland, does the job just fine.
Anchovy pasteAnchovy paste doesn’t have the same quality as whole anchovies, but is great to have in the pantry when you’re in a rush or are out of the whole ones.
Balsamic vinegarThe world of balsamic vinegar is huge. I very rarely use generic balsamic and prefer one with a bit more age. My go-to for many years has been Villa Manadori, produced by the esteemed Italian chef Massimo Bottura. It is thick, just sweet enough, and has all the grape notes important to balsamic with a hint of acid. Balsamic is a place to splurge if you can. For the quality, his is reasonably priced—and a little goes a long way.
BasilAdds freshness to any dish. Even though you can get it all year round, it’s definitely superior when in season.
Beans
I use mostly canned beans at home to save time. There are plenty of good, organic brands available.
Black peppercornsYou will see throughout the book that I use a pepper mill to grind fresh pepper wherever it is needed. This makes a big difference— never buy ground pepper.
CapersAlways buy capers packed in salt. Your food will benefit more from their inherent salty flavor than their brine-packed counterparts that taste too pickled. (Salt-packed capers need to be soaked in water for 30 to 60 minutes before use.)
Chili flakesBasic and simple, but offers an intense heat.
Citrus (lemons & oranges) I use citrus in most everything I cook; the juice and, probably more prominently, the zest. The oils from the peels pack a huge punch of flavor that brightens just about any dish. I’m addicted. Make sure to remove any white pith while using zest or you will have very bitter results.
Coarse sea salt For finishing dishes.
Coriander seeds Brings an earthy, citrusy note. Love to use it just freshly cracked for added texture and a pop of bright flavor.
Crushed Calabrian chiles Tutto Calabria makes a wide range of products and is the only brand that is readily available in Italian specialty stores and online. My favorite is their crushed hot chili peppers; they are VERY spicy so a little goes a long way. I also like that you get the added bonus of the chili oil, which can be drizzled on pizza, fish, vegetables, and pasta.
Dried pasta I am a simple girl. I like De Cecco. Most people are shocked by this because it is a common brand that you can find in almost every supermarket, but it’s got great texture, which is the most important thing. If you want to go a little fancier and artisanal with dried pasta, my pick is Rustichella d’Abruzzo.
Fennel It’s in a lot of recipes in the book, but frankly I just like to keep it around to eat raw because it’s a great, healthy snack.
Fennel pollen I call this my “magic dust” because it has a way of making everything taste amazing; it is a great finisher to vegetables, meat, fish, and poultry. While it is not cheap (it’s generally hand harvested from the fennel flower) it’s worth every penny and you don’t need much of it to make an impact.
Fennel seeds I think I use this in ninety-nine percent of my dishes. It’s assertive but never overwhelming.
Flat-leaf italian parsleyWhenever I refer to parsley, it always means flat-leaf Italian. Curly parsley does not exist in my world.
GarlicI think fresh garlic is likely my most used ingredient: roasted, sliced, chopped, whole cloves, whole heads. You will see throughout the book that it takes on different characteristics depending on how you use it.
Garlic powderIt might be surprising that a chef would love garlic powder as much as I do. I also like to use it in addition to fresh garlic for a second dimension of garlic flavor.
Honey A great alternative to refined sugar.
Kosher saltDiamond Kosher is my brand of choice. I prefer the texture over other salts and it is my go-to salt for all-around seasoning. You will become very good friends with salt over the course of this book.
Marjoram I like to refer to marjoram as the feminine version of oregano.
Olive oilThis is one of the most important ingredients in any pantry. Always buy 100% extra-virgin as it is the purest form of olive oil. There are many, many differences in quality and flavor across brands and even production regions, so you’ll have to do some experimenting to find ones that suit your needs and palate. Generally, you want one that is balanced in flavor to use as your cooking oil for everyday use, and one with a little more nuance for finishing dishes. I tend to favor oils with milder, grassy notes for fish, and a more buttery, peppery finish for meat.
Parmigiano-ReggianoThis cheese reigns supreme in northern Italy. It is a bit nuttier than its southern sibling, Pecorino, but still salty. Terrific on its own and grated over pastas, meats, and vegetables.
Pecorino RomanoI can’t live without Pecorino.
Pink peppercorns I have a special love for the underutilized pink peppercorn. They are floral and sweet and intense. Use sparingly.
Red wine vinegarMy workhorse vinegar. Not all red wine vinegars are created equal; my preferred brand is one from Italy called Trucialetto. Red wine vinegar is a place to spend a little extra money to get better quality because you want something with decent body, but also a deeper balance of flavor that doesn’t just taste like acid.
RosemaryBe careful not to use too much because it can be medicinal in taste, so it’s best to add it towards the end of cooking.
San Marzano tomatoesSan Marzano tomatoes are only truly San Marzano tomatoes if they come from that place in Italy. After many years of tasting and testing, I always use La Valle brand. They are consistent in flavor and have the perfect balance of acidity and sweetness.
Tomato passatoIf you want to make a quick sauce and don’t want to deal with cans and hand-crushing tomatoes, passato is great to have because the work has already been done for you.
ThymeAlways use fresh thyme, never dried.
Other necessities Dijon and grainy mustard, onions, tomato paste, hot paprika, smoked paprika, sweet paprika, hot sauce.
—From Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner . . . Life! Recipes and Adventures from My Home Kitchen by Missy Robbins with Carrie King / Rizzoli Publishing