11 Michelin-Starred Chefs Share Their Comfort-Food Spots in Paris

Dining in Paris
Photographed by Mario Testino, Vogue, May 2014

It’s no secret that Paris has some very fine restaurants. The city is home to the second-most-Michelin-starred restaurants in the world—Tokyo comes in first with 302, but France’s capital has nearly just as many eateries that have been awarded with the guide’s highest distinction despite having only 144 in total—and tasting menus are bountiful and can set you back more than $450 at some of those spots. But where do the chefs who helm these exquisite establishments go when they’re looking for a place that reminds them of their childhood or to feel at ease while still having great but inexpensive fare? We asked 11 of the best to share their stomping grounds for comfort food in the City of Light: From local bistros to Italian haunts and even a patisserie, check out their favorites below.

“There’s this very old Italian restaurant that has been around for nearly 30 years called Le Cherche Midi. The chef, Franco Gulli, is someone I respect for the incredible discipline he has regarding quality Italian products. I always order the truffle-flavored mortadella when I go there. It reminds me so much of my childhood. Before I started as a chef, I always loved to work to have some pocket money. When I was 14, I helped a builder clean his workplace before and after school, and he would pay me 10,000 liras (equal to about 2 euros) and always invite me to a pastificio, where the owners put fresh mortadella inside a fresh loaf of warm and crispy bread. I always kept this memory close to me, and Le Cherche Midi reminds me of it every time I go there.” —Simone Zanoni, Le George

“I love going to Passy Market, and as I’m a ‘chef from the sea’ and was once a cook on a fishing boat in Brittany, I’ve tried to find the best fisherman there, and I believe I’ve found the perfect one: Christophe. He always prepares some great seafood for me to cook at home for my family on the weekends.” —Christian Le Squer, Le Cinq

“I go to this very special place called Sagan, where the atmosphere is quiet and you really feel welcome. The sweetbread beignet is just amazing, as is the Japanese barbecued pork. For starters I’ll usually either get the razor clam salad or vegetable tempura. The quality of the products is great, the plating is beautiful, and the team here really wants you to have a delightful time. Plus, they also have a superb wine list with some old vintages.” —Adeline Grattard, Yam’Tcha

“I love going to Bontemps Pâtisserie on Rue de Bretagne in the Third Arrondissement. It makes incredible old-fashioned pies where the pâte sablée crust is always perfect. They don’t look for originality, but instead try to remind you of nostalgic flavors. All of the ingredients they use are simple, but I think that their pies surpass most of the desserts served at Michelin-starred restaurants. I usually get their strawberry pies and little gianduja sablés.” —Mathieu Pacaud, Histoires and Hexagone

“I love to go to L’Assiette, a restaurant that serves rustic, canaille cuisine, but it’s really chef David Rathgeber that makes me feel at home. He’s really talented, and I have a blind trust in him—he can cook me whatever he wants and I know it’ll be amazing. He gives precedence to local and seasonal products, which is very important to me. I was born in Pakistan and spent nine years there before coming to France. Not knowing French, I relied heavily on how things and people made me feel. You don’t have to speak a language to understand a person’s vibes, and cooking is somewhat similar in that you can share a meal with someone and speak to them through the food you’ve prepared for them. David’s food shows his love for French cuisine, and when you do something with love, it’ll always result in magic.” —Sylvestre Wahid, Restaurant Sylvestre

“I love oeufs en meurette, and the best place to have some is La Fontaine de Mars. It is an historic and typical Parisian bistro located on Rue Saint Dominique. I have a special place in my heart for casual restaurants with a friendly atmosphere where you can enjoy traditional, down-to-earth cuisine. It reminds me of my childhood and is also the reason why we have our own French bistros with our Terroir Parisien restaurants.” —Yannick Alléno, Pavillon Ledoyen

“I like to go to Paris bistros where I can enjoy traditional, authentic, and tasteful dishes. My favorites are Benoit, L’Os à Moelle, La Cantine du Troquet, and Baroche. I like these particular restaurants for the warm welcome and very French atmosphere. I usually order hen with duck foie gras pie, blood sausage parmentier, or roasted chicken breast, which remind me of what my grandmother made for me when I was growing up.” —Nicolas Sale, La Table de L’Espadon and Les Jardins de L’Espadon

“I learned to cook from my mother while I was growing up in Hong Kong, so if I want Chinese food, I cook it myself (barbecued pork with honey and fried rice are my favorites). But if I’m craving Parisian comfort food, I go to L’Avant Comptoir. It’s a very easygoing place that doesn’t require a reservation. The chef has created a very interesting mix of sweet and savory flavors in the macaron de boudin noir béarnaise (blood sausage macaron), which is what I usually order.” —Samuel Lee Sum, Shang Palace

“I like to go to L’Arôme and order a dish that consists of layered crab, avocado, Koshihikari rice, tomato gelée, and smoked chili. The atmosphere of the restaurant is warm, and chef Thomas Boullault is also a dear friend and colleague of mine.” —Jérôme Banctel, Restaurant Le Gabriel

“My favorite restaurant for comfort food is Quinsou. I love chef Antonin Bonnet, and the staff is very kind. I prefer lighter meals—either food without fat or vegetarian dishes. Comfort food is connected with a comfortable place and good wine, and Quinsou delivers on both.” —Sylvain Sendra, Itinéraires

“My favorite Japanese-style restaurant is Restaurant Toyo. It’s near where I live and I can also go there alone since most of the seating is at a countertop that wraps around the kitchen. It’s a place where many Japanese chefs in Paris go at night after their own service to exchange stories and have drinks. I also like Chez Denise La Tour de Montlhéry, since it’s open until 5:00 a.m. and I can go there with my staff after we’ve closed. It serves classic French food in generous portions, and there’s a lot of meat on the menu, which I love. I usually order beef tartare with french fries.” —Toshitaka Omiya, Restaurant Alliance